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Once your pool is ready to be opened, you can now lay back and enjoy the fruits of your labor! Yes, you’ve earned that first dip! All left to be done is to maintain your swimming pool with the aid of a good plan.

With all of the basic maintenance, routine and tests accomplished once, a regular schedule to maintain your swimming pool should be done. The main thing in this regard is to manage the pool chemistry. Managing your pool’s chemical balance at optimal level along with gear efficiency will go a long in saving us a lot of money.

  • Chlorine – This is the one everybody is aware of. Chlorine is the chemical that sanitizes the water, kills micro organism, and impedes algae growth. Pool chemistry is measured in parts per million gallons of water, which you can see abbreviated as (PPM). The best chlorine range is 0.5 to 3.0 PPM. If levels drop under this region, you run the dangers of discolored, murky water and algae growth. If above the acceptable range; the water may irritate the eyes and skin. Including chlorine to the water is regularly achieved with tablets or granular chlorine through an automatic inline chlorinator. There are additionally floating chlorinators; however, the inline models are mostly preferred due to the ability to regulate the quantities which is dispersed. Once in a while, it’s going to be quintessential to tremendously chlorinate or shock the water. The is done as a preventative step against the growth of algae and bacteria. How regularly you have to do that relies on the quantity of use and the climate conditions. When shocking the pool; allow the chlorine level to return to normal before permitting swimmers. During summer and warm temperatures chlorine are burned quickly as a result of the heat and sunlight. It is significant to stay on a regular timetable due to the fact that the water color will turn quickly when the level drops and, as soon as it turns, it’s going to take quite a lot of work to get it again.
  • PH – This is the acidity degree of the water. When checking out the PH level the acceptable range is 7.2 to 7.6 PPM. PH could be the most crucial aspect of pool water chemistry because of its effects on the different factors and the potential damage it may cause. Low PH can cause excessive acidity of the water resulting in corrosion of metal components, etching of plaster, and staining. Having low PH most commonly causes of burning to the eyes and can speed up the burning of chlorine. High PH limits the effectiveness of the chlorine and can just make the water become cloudy. To reduce the PH degree, add muriatic acid to the water by pouring across the perimeter of the pool. Avoid ladders or different metal components because of its enormously corrosive nature. It’s a great idea to now brush the pool then to prevent the acid from settling on the plaster. You can raise the PH by including soda ash (sodium bicarbonate). Introduce Always add chemicals as said in the producers’ instructional materials and the MSDS.
  • Complete Alkalinity – In technical terms, this is a measure of the water’s capacity to neutralize or dissolve the hydrogen ions in acid. Sincerely, having the desired alkaline degree helps manipulate fluctuations in PH when chemical compounds are included. The favored whole Alkalinity level is between 80 and 120 PPM. Lower levels will cause extreme changes in PH, which id also be dangerous to pool equipment. Higher levels make it intricate to adjust PH and render chlorine less effective. Total alkalinity can also be raised through including sodium bicarbonate or soda ash and can be reduced through the addition of muriatic acid or sodium bisulphate. Consult the manufactures guideline for the proper quantities of chemical to be delivered.
  • Calcium Hardness – This is the measure of dissolved calcium in water. The desired levels are between 250 and 500 PPM. Preserving the preferred level is fundamental for the safety and life of the plaster. Lower levels will cause calcium to leach from the plaster causing pitting and shortening the lifespan of the surface. Higher levels may cause scaling and cloudy water. To raise calcium hardness, add calcium chloride. To cut back the level, add small quantities of trisodium phosphate of backwash water from the pool and change to fresh one.
  • Stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid) – Chlorine molecules are unstable, and exposure to sunlight and heat will make the chlorine to dissolve swiftly lowering the quantity of free chlorine. Adding cyanuric acid stabilizes the molecules, slowing the dissipation of the chlorine. In different words, adding stabilizer reduces the amount and frequency of including chlorine to the pool. Some chlorine capsules are stabilized, so you may already have some degree of cyanuric acid. The desired level is between 30 and 50 PPM. Cyanuric acid should be introduced in small quantities to prevent exceeding 50 PPM. Very high levels can result in a chlorine lock, which stops the chlorine from doing it is job, making the water to cloud or become discolored.

Knowing to monitor and manage these basics will provide you with a good start on keeping a clean, appealing pool all the time.

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